Sunday 21 September 2008
Monday 15 September 2008
Back Home
The Journey home went pretty much according to plan - picked up the car in Nice at 10.30 on Sunday morning, drove 765 miles to Calais in 10 hours (on the road). Dropped the car off at the ferry terminal, got the ferry to Dover, train to Charing Cross and short ride home (slightly longer for Oli!) for about 3.00pm today.
Managed to get to Reims (where else!) last night in time for a dinner stop in the Cafe de la Paix on Place Erlon. Very good fish, a glass of the local fizz (Taittinger, of course!) and a nice white burgundy - pity that the service has become very Parisian - efficient but no more.
A few hours sleep and back on the road to finish the journey this morning. Not usually a fan of modern cars but the Opel Zafira was a very efficient vehicle - set the cruise control and all I had to do was indicate when changing lanes - Oli ensured that I was supplied with snacks and drinks and kept the A/C under control - great teamwork. Plenty of room in the back for the two bikes - didnt even have to take the front wheels off.
Because of the Eurotunnel problems, the ferry was busy - a large group of aging Rolls enthusiasts returning from a rally on the Rhine - some fabulous motors - and about 8 coach loads of german teenagers on a school trip made for some interesting people watching. Bonus of a head, neck and shoulder massage sitting in a chair in the bar from a friendly young lady while Oli was off shopping. Asked if she would give my legs a rub but no joy!
Seems odd not to be getting up to ride, eat, ride, eat, ride, eat, ride, shower, eat, sleep......... but have to make it to the Headway House tomorrow morning for our reception committee - and perhaps some press photos.
Hope to sort out a recap of the trip and upload the photos tomorrow and post a final entry on the blog to bring it all to a conclusion. Thanks for your comments will try to respond appropriately in due course. I know Jimmy C is upset that I didnt get back in time to buy him a drink this afternoon but I'm sure he'll get over it!
Managed to get to Reims (where else!) last night in time for a dinner stop in the Cafe de la Paix on Place Erlon. Very good fish, a glass of the local fizz (Taittinger, of course!) and a nice white burgundy - pity that the service has become very Parisian - efficient but no more.
A few hours sleep and back on the road to finish the journey this morning. Not usually a fan of modern cars but the Opel Zafira was a very efficient vehicle - set the cruise control and all I had to do was indicate when changing lanes - Oli ensured that I was supplied with snacks and drinks and kept the A/C under control - great teamwork. Plenty of room in the back for the two bikes - didnt even have to take the front wheels off.
Because of the Eurotunnel problems, the ferry was busy - a large group of aging Rolls enthusiasts returning from a rally on the Rhine - some fabulous motors - and about 8 coach loads of german teenagers on a school trip made for some interesting people watching. Bonus of a head, neck and shoulder massage sitting in a chair in the bar from a friendly young lady while Oli was off shopping. Asked if she would give my legs a rub but no joy!
Seems odd not to be getting up to ride, eat, ride, eat, ride, eat, ride, shower, eat, sleep......... but have to make it to the Headway House tomorrow morning for our reception committee - and perhaps some press photos.
Hope to sort out a recap of the trip and upload the photos tomorrow and post a final entry on the blog to bring it all to a conclusion. Thanks for your comments will try to respond appropriately in due course. I know Jimmy C is upset that I didnt get back in time to buy him a drink this afternoon but I'm sure he'll get over it!
Sunday 14 September 2008
FINIS
At 1530 hrs local time on Saturday 13th September 2008, Oli and I were drinking Moet at the Cafe de Paris in front of the Casino at Monte Carlo.
I was on for the full bottle and then the train back to Nice but Oli insisted that we should ride back so we settled for the demi! (just as well at MC prices). He was right of course because there were some lovely views - and a very fast tunnel downhill.
Trip 79.9m
Average 12.1 mph
Max 43.2mph !!
Time 6.34hrs
Total 909m
Another tremendous day - started early, riding towards the rising sun as we finally reached the Med. The Corniche between St Raphael and Cannes is one of the best rides I can remember - 34k of ups and downs around the calanques - in the company of literally hundreds of frenchmen in lycra.
The waypoints today read like an upmarket French holiday brochure - or probably a song by Sacha Distel (who he?) - St Raphael, Cannes, Juan les Pins, Cap D'Antibes, Nice, Villefranche, Beaulieu, and finally Monaco and Monte Carlo.
The ride along the Promenade des Anglais was so good that we have now done it three times - cycle path separated from traffic and pedestrians and very well signposted.
Thought that coffee at Juan les Pins was pricey until we got the bill for coffee and croissants at the caffe promenade in Nice this morning (Eu 4.80for a cup of tea). however sunday morning in the sunshine in Nice was worth it.
Now all we have to do is get home. Off to pick up the car and drive the 900 miles back to Calais and ferry home tomorrow.
more news when we get back and of course the Photos.
One final thought from Oli last night - he had rolled up the legs of his shorts to allow his road rash to heal in the air - and on the way into the hotel as we passed a mirror he asked if he looked like a Mason!
I was on for the full bottle and then the train back to Nice but Oli insisted that we should ride back so we settled for the demi! (just as well at MC prices). He was right of course because there were some lovely views - and a very fast tunnel downhill.
Trip 79.9m
Average 12.1 mph
Max 43.2mph !!
Time 6.34hrs
Total 909m
Another tremendous day - started early, riding towards the rising sun as we finally reached the Med. The Corniche between St Raphael and Cannes is one of the best rides I can remember - 34k of ups and downs around the calanques - in the company of literally hundreds of frenchmen in lycra.
The waypoints today read like an upmarket French holiday brochure - or probably a song by Sacha Distel (who he?) - St Raphael, Cannes, Juan les Pins, Cap D'Antibes, Nice, Villefranche, Beaulieu, and finally Monaco and Monte Carlo.
The ride along the Promenade des Anglais was so good that we have now done it three times - cycle path separated from traffic and pedestrians and very well signposted.
Thought that coffee at Juan les Pins was pricey until we got the bill for coffee and croissants at the caffe promenade in Nice this morning (Eu 4.80for a cup of tea). however sunday morning in the sunshine in Nice was worth it.
Now all we have to do is get home. Off to pick up the car and drive the 900 miles back to Calais and ferry home tomorrow.
more news when we get back and of course the Photos.
One final thought from Oli last night - he had rolled up the legs of his shorts to allow his road rash to heal in the air - and on the way into the hotel as we passed a mirror he asked if he looked like a Mason!
Friday 12 September 2008
Road Kill
Bernie, I know that you have been busy disposing of slugs but you should see the numbers squashed on the roads here. in addition to the slugs, we have seen a lot of toads (or should that be frogs since we are in France), cats, snakes, a fox and even a dead cow in a ditch- which smelled pretty unpleasant!
Lycra
Bernie in Lycra is not a sight anyone would appreciate!!
One of those who cycled past on a recent hill was a young french girl and the view of her rear in lycra got me up the hill a little faster - although she was already miles away by the time I got there.
the other annoying thing is that they are all immaculately turned out in their club colours with matching shoes and gloves - haven't seen any handbags yet!
One of those who cycled past on a recent hill was a young french girl and the view of her rear in lycra got me up the hill a little faster - although she was already miles away by the time I got there.
the other annoying thing is that they are all immaculately turned out in their club colours with matching shoes and gloves - haven't seen any handbags yet!
Back on Schedule
Stats for day 11
Trip 78.8m
Average 13.1mph
Max 34.1 mph(round the hairpins)
Time 6.00hrs
total 829m
Think we are getting the hang of this now - pity there is only one day left!!
Our Hotel last night was the only one in Peyrolles en Provence and seemed a little strange when we arrived - run by the Golightly family - madame was about 5ft 2in and about the same across, husband slightly taller but same proportions! However they were very friendly and helpful - even cleared a space in their garage for the bikes.
Dinner in the hotel restaurant, which was surprisingly busy, and the food was great - despite the disconcerting regular 'ping' of the microwave. Madame was the first waitress I have ever seen who actually need the double swing doors to get in and out of the kitchen!
Since we were on the 'Cote de Aix en Provence' we had a very pleasant white wine from a chateau which we cycled past this morning. Bit of route planning discussion with the husband which proved invaluable - very accomodating chap who brought a bottle of cognac to the table for me and only charged for one drink. Over a glass or three (Oli was back on the red wine) of the cognac, we came up with a new plan which would get us to Frejus and back on schedule.
As has become our habit, it was up the crack of the sparrow, quick breakfast of bread and homemade jam and on the road as the sun rose to our left. A cool clear morning - after spectacular thunder and lightning in the early hours - with mist hanging in the trees just beneath the mountain ridges.
I know I said this yesterday but without doubt this was the prettiest part of the route - as the sun rose and warmed the air, we were still high enough for the temperature to stay very pleasant - even while climbing the hills. As recommended we planned our elevenses stop at Barjols (our host had described it as 'un de la plus belle villes en France') and rode down the steep hill into town found patisserie (for cake and lunch), pharmacy for some more dressings for Oli and the cafe only to find that our next road was back at the top of the hill - it was a pretty place but a bloody great hill!
Carried on across the hilly countryside always expecting the really big climb but it never materialised. We did have a couple of tremendous downhills - one with some great hairpins - pity that the cars coming up got in the way of the perfect line! As a result - even after a stop in Lorgues for cold water and a glass of Provence Rosé ( which they claim to have been making since 600 years BC) - we arrived at the hotel in Frejus at 4.30. Oli's wounds are starting to heal but it is embarassing walking down the street with the 'Mummy'.
Planning early start again tomorrow with 66m to the finish - and 12m back to Nice for the hotel (Monte Carlo hotels were way beyond our budget - even the Ibis was over €240). still with our experience of the last few days we could be done by lunchtime!
Trip 78.8m
Average 13.1mph
Max 34.1 mph(round the hairpins)
Time 6.00hrs
total 829m
Think we are getting the hang of this now - pity there is only one day left!!
Our Hotel last night was the only one in Peyrolles en Provence and seemed a little strange when we arrived - run by the Golightly family - madame was about 5ft 2in and about the same across, husband slightly taller but same proportions! However they were very friendly and helpful - even cleared a space in their garage for the bikes.
Dinner in the hotel restaurant, which was surprisingly busy, and the food was great - despite the disconcerting regular 'ping' of the microwave. Madame was the first waitress I have ever seen who actually need the double swing doors to get in and out of the kitchen!
Since we were on the 'Cote de Aix en Provence' we had a very pleasant white wine from a chateau which we cycled past this morning. Bit of route planning discussion with the husband which proved invaluable - very accomodating chap who brought a bottle of cognac to the table for me and only charged for one drink. Over a glass or three (Oli was back on the red wine) of the cognac, we came up with a new plan which would get us to Frejus and back on schedule.
As has become our habit, it was up the crack of the sparrow, quick breakfast of bread and homemade jam and on the road as the sun rose to our left. A cool clear morning - after spectacular thunder and lightning in the early hours - with mist hanging in the trees just beneath the mountain ridges.
I know I said this yesterday but without doubt this was the prettiest part of the route - as the sun rose and warmed the air, we were still high enough for the temperature to stay very pleasant - even while climbing the hills. As recommended we planned our elevenses stop at Barjols (our host had described it as 'un de la plus belle villes en France') and rode down the steep hill into town found patisserie (for cake and lunch), pharmacy for some more dressings for Oli and the cafe only to find that our next road was back at the top of the hill - it was a pretty place but a bloody great hill!
Carried on across the hilly countryside always expecting the really big climb but it never materialised. We did have a couple of tremendous downhills - one with some great hairpins - pity that the cars coming up got in the way of the perfect line! As a result - even after a stop in Lorgues for cold water and a glass of Provence Rosé ( which they claim to have been making since 600 years BC) - we arrived at the hotel in Frejus at 4.30. Oli's wounds are starting to heal but it is embarassing walking down the street with the 'Mummy'.
Planning early start again tomorrow with 66m to the finish - and 12m back to Nice for the hotel (Monte Carlo hotels were way beyond our budget - even the Ibis was over €240). still with our experience of the last few days we could be done by lunchtime!
Thursday 11 September 2008
Day 10 - Montelimare to Peyrolles
A very few stats today
Distance travelled 94 miles
Total dist 752 miles
The best day yet! Left Montelimare just as the sun was rising and managed 94 miles in 7 hours. Only 10 miles short of original schedule. Lovely ride through the Cote du Rhone villages - grape harvest had just started and there was a strong smell of grape juice in the air as we passed each coop. Then along the Durance valley to finish in sight of the mountains which we have to cross tomorrow. No easy way! Head down and pedal.
Oli came off his bike today. Nothing serious but nasty road rash on his knee and elbow. Picked up supplies in a pharmacy which like the boulangerie there is one in every French village.
Distance travelled 94 miles
Total dist 752 miles
The best day yet! Left Montelimare just as the sun was rising and managed 94 miles in 7 hours. Only 10 miles short of original schedule. Lovely ride through the Cote du Rhone villages - grape harvest had just started and there was a strong smell of grape juice in the air as we passed each coop. Then along the Durance valley to finish in sight of the mountains which we have to cross tomorrow. No easy way! Head down and pedal.
Oli came off his bike today. Nothing serious but nasty road rash on his knee and elbow. Picked up supplies in a pharmacy which like the boulangerie there is one in every French village.
Wednesday 10 September 2008
Day 9 (Wed) - Valence to Montelimare
Stats for the day
Distance travelled 34.3 miles
Average speed 11.2 mph
Max speed 30.6 mph
Time 3.02 hrs
Total dist 658 miles
Started from Valence in light rain for the first half hour, it then brightened and sun shone all day with a temperature up to 30 deg at midday. Lovely ride through rural France frightened a few chickens in a couple of farmyards on the way great fun! One big climb at Col de Deves only 458 metres but took us 30 minutes to climb followed by a great descent with views over the plains of Provence. Stopped at a little bakery to buy some lunch and met an old Belgian couple who were keen cyclists but thought like everyone else we’ve met that we must be mad.
Within 20 mins Richard's chain broke again (old chain, new chain still in the cycle bag) and this time catastrophically it ripped the derailleur gear off the bike and bent the frame bracket that supports it. Patched it up with one gear only and limped into Espeluche where Richard got a taxi to the bike shop in Montelimare while Oli had to cycle! The bike shop did a tremendous job and rebuilt the running gear in less than 3 hrs (Euro 150). So we are not bust yet but very nearly thought we were...
Found a little motel nearby to stay for our enforced rest afternoon and even found time for a swim in the warm evening temperature before dinner. Have devised a plan to make up the time over the next 2 days and still hope to be in Monte Carlo on schedule (Sat). Very early start tomorrow (at dawn) and hoping everything goes well.
ps Lucked out in our hotel tonight because they gave us a big room to fit the bikes in as well as ourselves AND they also have a lady cycling team staying here (French and they all look good in lycra!)
By complete chance our revised route for tomorrow takes us through a number of the major Rhone apellations – Cairanne (mentioned this before), Bacqueyres, Gigondas, and within spitting distance of beaumes de venise. Think we'll be pushed to fit in a tasting though.
Richard has never cycled more than 85 miles in a day but Oli being the expert reckons breaking the ton is nothing – we may find out tomorrow!
Haven’t seen TV or newspapers since Dover so if anyone fancies updating us on any important news (Arsenal, Leyton Orient (who?) or West Ham) feel free.
Distance travelled 34.3 miles
Average speed 11.2 mph
Max speed 30.6 mph
Time 3.02 hrs
Total dist 658 miles
Started from Valence in light rain for the first half hour, it then brightened and sun shone all day with a temperature up to 30 deg at midday. Lovely ride through rural France frightened a few chickens in a couple of farmyards on the way great fun! One big climb at Col de Deves only 458 metres but took us 30 minutes to climb followed by a great descent with views over the plains of Provence. Stopped at a little bakery to buy some lunch and met an old Belgian couple who were keen cyclists but thought like everyone else we’ve met that we must be mad.
Within 20 mins Richard's chain broke again (old chain, new chain still in the cycle bag) and this time catastrophically it ripped the derailleur gear off the bike and bent the frame bracket that supports it. Patched it up with one gear only and limped into Espeluche where Richard got a taxi to the bike shop in Montelimare while Oli had to cycle! The bike shop did a tremendous job and rebuilt the running gear in less than 3 hrs (Euro 150). So we are not bust yet but very nearly thought we were...
Found a little motel nearby to stay for our enforced rest afternoon and even found time for a swim in the warm evening temperature before dinner. Have devised a plan to make up the time over the next 2 days and still hope to be in Monte Carlo on schedule (Sat). Very early start tomorrow (at dawn) and hoping everything goes well.
ps Lucked out in our hotel tonight because they gave us a big room to fit the bikes in as well as ourselves AND they also have a lady cycling team staying here (French and they all look good in lycra!)
By complete chance our revised route for tomorrow takes us through a number of the major Rhone apellations – Cairanne (mentioned this before), Bacqueyres, Gigondas, and within spitting distance of beaumes de venise. Think we'll be pushed to fit in a tasting though.
Richard has never cycled more than 85 miles in a day but Oli being the expert reckons breaking the ton is nothing – we may find out tomorrow!
Haven’t seen TV or newspapers since Dover so if anyone fancies updating us on any important news (Arsenal, Leyton Orient (who?) or West Ham) feel free.
Day 8 (Tues) - Villefranche to Valence
Stats for the day
Distance travelled 97.5 miles
Average speed 11.6 mph
Max speed 27.5 mph
Time 8.2 hrs
Total dist 623 miles
Starting from Villefranche we had bright sun until lunchtime then it got very dark and the dreaded head wind arrived again however the sun came out in the late evening just when we needed it.
This was supposed to be an easy day but due to a problem with the original calculations and some poor navigation at Lyon we ended up with nearly 100 miles on the clock for the day. Because the cycle path at Lyon was blocked with works, we ended up cycling 7 miles on a very rough path, sometimes flooded, on the outside of the Total refinery - not very scenic as you can imagine. By the time we found our route again and got back on course we were running low on time and energy. We did find a very friendly cycle shop at Vienne where I got a new chain and directions to a brand new cycle route on our path and Oli got a new cycle cap (gift from the friendly cycle shopkeeper).
Because of fading daylight we did the last 27 miles in 2 hrs and arrived at the hotel after dark. Survived the whole day on fruit and chocolate (good cycling food says Oli). We did have to resort to an energy gel for the finish and they do taste so disgusting that you really only use them in an emergency.
Very impressed again with Campanile hotel and found that their local wine was the cairanne bouton d’or which Linda and I served at our wedding (memories!). Oli enjoyed it so much that we took an extra half bottle back to the room to help with our route planning for the next day and devised a route which kept us away from the main roads for all of day 9.
Just for Graham - we cycled through Condrieu (a favourite of Pauline L’s), Ampul (the headquarters of E Guigal probably the best of the Rhone producers) and just before arriving in Valence we passed very closed to Crozel’hermitage. What a wine list!
Distance travelled 97.5 miles
Average speed 11.6 mph
Max speed 27.5 mph
Time 8.2 hrs
Total dist 623 miles
Starting from Villefranche we had bright sun until lunchtime then it got very dark and the dreaded head wind arrived again however the sun came out in the late evening just when we needed it.
This was supposed to be an easy day but due to a problem with the original calculations and some poor navigation at Lyon we ended up with nearly 100 miles on the clock for the day. Because the cycle path at Lyon was blocked with works, we ended up cycling 7 miles on a very rough path, sometimes flooded, on the outside of the Total refinery - not very scenic as you can imagine. By the time we found our route again and got back on course we were running low on time and energy. We did find a very friendly cycle shop at Vienne where I got a new chain and directions to a brand new cycle route on our path and Oli got a new cycle cap (gift from the friendly cycle shopkeeper).
Because of fading daylight we did the last 27 miles in 2 hrs and arrived at the hotel after dark. Survived the whole day on fruit and chocolate (good cycling food says Oli). We did have to resort to an energy gel for the finish and they do taste so disgusting that you really only use them in an emergency.
Very impressed again with Campanile hotel and found that their local wine was the cairanne bouton d’or which Linda and I served at our wedding (memories!). Oli enjoyed it so much that we took an extra half bottle back to the room to help with our route planning for the next day and devised a route which kept us away from the main roads for all of day 9.
Just for Graham - we cycled through Condrieu (a favourite of Pauline L’s), Ampul (the headquarters of E Guigal probably the best of the Rhone producers) and just before arriving in Valence we passed very closed to Crozel’hermitage. What a wine list!
Day 7 (Mon) - Chagny to Villefranche
Stats for the day
Distance travelled 73.3 miles
Average speed 12.1 mph
Max speed 27.1 mph
Time 6.05 hrs
Total dist 526 miles
After posting the blog had a great ride along the Voie Verte had a photo opportunity at Cormatin which is as pretty as any Loire château. Onto Cluny for the promised demi bouteille of St Veran and back on the road when everything went wrong. Being clumsy with the gear changes Richard managed to break the chain on his bike and although Oli had his chain tool we managed to damage that as well. Cycled back to Cluny to the bike shop to find that they had closed for the day (at 3pm!) and there was not another bike shop within 40 miles. With the help of a couple of Frenchmen in lycra... who originally stopped to borrow a pump... we managed to fix the chain and carry on to Villefranche. Survived the day with some very expensive but very very good hazelnut chocolate from the patisserie at Cluny!
Distance travelled 73.3 miles
Average speed 12.1 mph
Max speed 27.1 mph
Time 6.05 hrs
Total dist 526 miles
After posting the blog had a great ride along the Voie Verte had a photo opportunity at Cormatin which is as pretty as any Loire château. Onto Cluny for the promised demi bouteille of St Veran and back on the road when everything went wrong. Being clumsy with the gear changes Richard managed to break the chain on his bike and although Oli had his chain tool we managed to damage that as well. Cycled back to Cluny to the bike shop to find that they had closed for the day (at 3pm!) and there was not another bike shop within 40 miles. With the help of a couple of Frenchmen in lycra... who originally stopped to borrow a pump... we managed to fix the chain and carry on to Villefranche. Survived the day with some very expensive but very very good hazelnut chocolate from the patisserie at Cluny!
Monday 8 September 2008
Frenchmen in Lycra
As we ride up the hills, we are usually overtaken by some skinny frenchman in lycra with a cheery 'bonjour'. Since they all weigh less than 60 kilos soaking wet and all ride bikes that weigh "huit kilos" I think they have a bit of an advantage over me and my bike.
however on saturday we came upon a cycle event for part of the route - must have been 50-60 cyclists on a club ride - and most of them should not have been wearing lycra!
however on saturday we came upon a cycle event for part of the route - must have been 50-60 cyclists on a club ride - and most of them should not have been wearing lycra!
back online
Didnt realise it would be so difficult to find internet access. also didnt know that no one in France has a Qwerty keyboard so typing is v frustrating.
Day 7 - departed from Chagny this morning in blue skies and sunshine and after 10 miles on the road to Givry we are now on the Voie Verte for 40 miles - old railway line with tarmac surface - level, and quite quick. our stop tonight is Villefranche sur Saone in the heart of Beaujolais. We have already cycled past Rully, Mercurey, Chassagne Montrachet, St Aubin and Santenay. Gets more like a restaurant wine list as we head south. Should be at Cluny for lunch time and perhaps close enough for a glass or two of Pouilly Fuisse or St Veran with our picnic.
When we last wrote - on day 4 in Chateau Thierry - Oli had finished the pastries by the time I caught up with him and we had a wet ride to Montmirail where the plat du jour was Lapin a la moutarde washed down with a very nice red burgundy. The afternoon got brighter and we finished in Nogent sur Seine - finally crossed the Seine - 301 miles from Calais. There were only two ther guests in the hotel but they still gave us a room on the third floor (no lift) at the far end of the corridor. Had the restaurant to ourselves - although later joined by a couple who looked like they were on a naughty (only had one course and rushed off to their room). For Graham's benefit - Oli had Salmon in a fruit de mer sauce and I had hake in tarragon. since we were in the region of Aube en Champagne, it would have been rude not to drink the local fizz!
Still seeing war graves as we ride along and also FFR monuments to those shot by the germans - mostly in 1944. I'm reading Ben Elton's "First Casualty" which is about the first war and a great story if you see a copy. Still true today - as blair and campbell proved - Truth is always the first casualty of war!
Day 5 took us via St Florentin to Ancy le Franc - should have had the afternoon on the canal but the path was more cart track than cycle path so we stuck to the road. smart hotel with pool but not v friendly. couldn't do an early breakfast for us and wouldn't open the pool early either. However they did have a very posh restaurant - as Oli said they gave you new cutlery with each course.
Since we were now in burgundy, we had cremant to start and a lovely tonerrois red with dinner --Boeuf for me and Raie au moutarde for Oli. It is hard work trying to get all these calories in. lots of bread and croissants at breakfast, coffee and patisserie for elevenses and now settled into buying savoury pastries for a picnic lunch. there was a great charcuterie across from the hotel so we could load up for the next day.
Day 6 took us from Ancy to Chagny - again had hoped to spend most of day on canal but only managed about 40k before we were forced back the road. it was overcast for most of the day but we seemed to miss most of the rain - a couple of little showers but nothing more. It was always planned to be our longest day and after tea at Bligny sur Ouche, we cycled up a 10% hill for about 25 mins. then on to Bel Air where we could look down on all of Burgundy - great view but a little hazy. once we started down the hill towards Chagny it got a lot warmer -even on the 7 mile downhill stretch.
very good hotel in Chagny - lots of other cyclists - australians and germans - and a secure garage for our bikes. Since it was Sunday evening the restaurant choice was a little limited but found a small brasserie where we got escargots to start - allowed Oli his Julia Roberts moment with the tongs! Lovely piece of entrecote charollais for me Boeuf for Oli - Grand cru Rully was as local as we could get - worth the ride just for that!
Day 7 - departed from Chagny this morning in blue skies and sunshine and after 10 miles on the road to Givry we are now on the Voie Verte for 40 miles - old railway line with tarmac surface - level, and quite quick. our stop tonight is Villefranche sur Saone in the heart of Beaujolais. We have already cycled past Rully, Mercurey, Chassagne Montrachet, St Aubin and Santenay. Gets more like a restaurant wine list as we head south. Should be at Cluny for lunch time and perhaps close enough for a glass or two of Pouilly Fuisse or St Veran with our picnic.
When we last wrote - on day 4 in Chateau Thierry - Oli had finished the pastries by the time I caught up with him and we had a wet ride to Montmirail where the plat du jour was Lapin a la moutarde washed down with a very nice red burgundy. The afternoon got brighter and we finished in Nogent sur Seine - finally crossed the Seine - 301 miles from Calais. There were only two ther guests in the hotel but they still gave us a room on the third floor (no lift) at the far end of the corridor. Had the restaurant to ourselves - although later joined by a couple who looked like they were on a naughty (only had one course and rushed off to their room). For Graham's benefit - Oli had Salmon in a fruit de mer sauce and I had hake in tarragon. since we were in the region of Aube en Champagne, it would have been rude not to drink the local fizz!
Still seeing war graves as we ride along and also FFR monuments to those shot by the germans - mostly in 1944. I'm reading Ben Elton's "First Casualty" which is about the first war and a great story if you see a copy. Still true today - as blair and campbell proved - Truth is always the first casualty of war!
Day 5 took us via St Florentin to Ancy le Franc - should have had the afternoon on the canal but the path was more cart track than cycle path so we stuck to the road. smart hotel with pool but not v friendly. couldn't do an early breakfast for us and wouldn't open the pool early either. However they did have a very posh restaurant - as Oli said they gave you new cutlery with each course.
Since we were now in burgundy, we had cremant to start and a lovely tonerrois red with dinner --Boeuf for me and Raie au moutarde for Oli. It is hard work trying to get all these calories in. lots of bread and croissants at breakfast, coffee and patisserie for elevenses and now settled into buying savoury pastries for a picnic lunch. there was a great charcuterie across from the hotel so we could load up for the next day.
Day 6 took us from Ancy to Chagny - again had hoped to spend most of day on canal but only managed about 40k before we were forced back the road. it was overcast for most of the day but we seemed to miss most of the rain - a couple of little showers but nothing more. It was always planned to be our longest day and after tea at Bligny sur Ouche, we cycled up a 10% hill for about 25 mins. then on to Bel Air where we could look down on all of Burgundy - great view but a little hazy. once we started down the hill towards Chagny it got a lot warmer -even on the 7 mile downhill stretch.
very good hotel in Chagny - lots of other cyclists - australians and germans - and a secure garage for our bikes. Since it was Sunday evening the restaurant choice was a little limited but found a small brasserie where we got escargots to start - allowed Oli his Julia Roberts moment with the tongs! Lovely piece of entrecote charollais for me Boeuf for Oli - Grand cru Rully was as local as we could get - worth the ride just for that!
Sunday 7 September 2008
Day 6 - Ancy le France to Chagny
Still no internet access so PA clocking up some overtime...
Stats today - day 6
Distance travelled 81.8 miles (impressive!)
Average speed 11.4mph
Max 32.2mph
Time 7.08 hrs
Total 452 miles
Weather for the day - dry but overcast for most of the day, sunshine late afternoon. Only very little rain, but still strong head wind for much of the day.
PA says - I do know they were cycling along part of the Canal de Bourgogne today, stopped for a picnic lunch enroute when a short sharp shower of rain sent them on their way again. After a big climb uphill, the last 7 miles into Chagny was all down hill - a nice way to end the day!
ps Half way there, all downhill from now on...
Stats today - day 6
Distance travelled 81.8 miles (impressive!)
Average speed 11.4mph
Max 32.2mph
Time 7.08 hrs
Total 452 miles
Weather for the day - dry but overcast for most of the day, sunshine late afternoon. Only very little rain, but still strong head wind for much of the day.
PA says - I do know they were cycling along part of the Canal de Bourgogne today, stopped for a picnic lunch enroute when a short sharp shower of rain sent them on their way again. After a big climb uphill, the last 7 miles into Chagny was all down hill - a nice way to end the day!
ps Half way there, all downhill from now on...
Saturday 6 September 2008
Saturday, 6th September 2008
Bon soir from the Barbican... unable to find internet access in Ancy le France, details sent by text for the PA to type up. So stats to date
Day 4 (Fri 5 Sept) / Day 5 (Sat 6 Sept)
Distance travelled 70.9 miles / 68.3miles
Average speed 10.6mph / 10.8mph
Max speed 32.5mph / 32.7mph
Time 6.37 hrs / 6.16 hrs
Total distance 301 miles / 370 miles
Day 4 Soissons to Nogent Sur Seine - grey cool start. Rain from coffee time 'til tea time and strong head wind all day.
Day 5 Nogent sur Seine to Ancy le France - dry all day and sunshine in late pm. Still strong head wind for much of the day.
Hopefully the intrepid cyclists will be able to stop at an internet cafe tomorrow (although it will be Sunday not much open in France on a Sunday) so they can write a bit more other than weather reports!
Day 4 (Fri 5 Sept) / Day 5 (Sat 6 Sept)
Distance travelled 70.9 miles / 68.3miles
Average speed 10.6mph / 10.8mph
Max speed 32.5mph / 32.7mph
Time 6.37 hrs / 6.16 hrs
Total distance 301 miles / 370 miles
Day 4 Soissons to Nogent Sur Seine - grey cool start. Rain from coffee time 'til tea time and strong head wind all day.
Day 5 Nogent sur Seine to Ancy le France - dry all day and sunshine in late pm. Still strong head wind for much of the day.
Hopefully the intrepid cyclists will be able to stop at an internet cafe tomorrow (although it will be Sunday not much open in France on a Sunday) so they can write a bit more other than weather reports!
Friday 5 September 2008
En France
Bonjour from Chateau Thierry on the morning of Day 4. the first internet access we have found.
First some Stats:
Lots more to write but still have 50 miles to ride today. we were on the road at 7.30am so that we could afford time to find somewhere with internet - pity it has a very odd keyboard which is very frustrating. Off now to join Oli at the patisserie
First some Stats:
Day two / Day three
Distance travelled 78.3 miles / 77.3miles
Average speed 11.4mph / 10.6mph
Max 31.1mph / 27.6mph
time 6.47 hrs / 7.12 hrs
Total 153 miles / 230miles
Early start from Dover to check in for ferry and after p+o breakfast - filling but expensive- we landed in Calais at 11.00 and after a few wrong turns found the road we wanted - grey and overcast but stayed dry and we cycled along a couple of canals watching the grey herons fishing.
we managed 30 miles before a very pleasant lunch in a restaurant in Lumbres - La Clairiere - and then discovered in conversation with the patron that our afternoon ride to Arras was 15 miles more than I had calculated - great ride over rolling hills and a couple of big climbs. Oli was surprised the first time it rained in France and disappointed the second time - particularly because of the force of the crosswind and the hailstorm that followed.
After that, the last 2 hours into Arras was tremendous - clear sky and sunshine - which encouraged our tired legs. finally got to the hotel by about 8.00pm. My first experience of Formule 1 - talk about reducing hotel keeping to the bare essentials.
Thursday was always going to be big day with 77 miles to do but we started in sunshine and apart from a couple of v short showers had sun all day - however we also had a headwind all day which was like riding though treacle for most of the time.
Great pastries with coffee in Bapaume and lunch outside in nthe sunshine at Ham but still the wind blew. great downhill finish into Soissons where we found a bike shop so that I could get some chain lube. Oli got a new cycling cap which he says is worth cycling 900 miles for. our hotel tonight was in a similar style but this time we had to bring the bikes into the room with us. greqt photo of the room, us and the washing line if I can find somewhere to upload it.
Our route has taken past countless war grave sites - French, British, South African, Canadian, Australian and German - and the towns and villages all sound familiar from history lessons. We stopped for a while at Sailly Sailliset and sat in the peace of the Commonwealth cemetery for a while - perhaps we should get our politicians to do that regularly so that they dont rush into more wars. Rode past Armentieres this morning which brought back a whole new set of songs to sing as we rode along - just as well no one could hear.Lots more to write but still have 50 miles to ride today. we were on the road at 7.30am so that we could afford time to find somewhere with internet - pity it has a very odd keyboard which is very frustrating. Off now to join Oli at the patisserie
Tuesday 2 September 2008
Day One - Hackney to Dover
Well, we started at last.
Daily statistics
Distance cycled: 75.2 miles
Time on road: 6.00hrs
Average speed: 12.4 mph
Max speed: 35.00mph
Faults: none
Injuries: None
Had a great send off from the Headway House - in addition to family and friends and staff and volunteers - we had a group of attenders who were all standing outside in the rain to wave us off! Pity Martin wasn't there - we had to make our own tea!
Did I mention that it was raining?? We left in the rain and cycled all the way to Rochester before it stopped. I spent the morning thinking positive thoughts about cycling in the rain:-
Made it to Dover in one piece after 19 miles riding on the dual carriageway - because it saved miles - and arrived in blue skies and sunshine. Travel inn for the night and a pint of Guinness / Cider to celebrate. Started watching the TV weather forecast but then decided there was no point, we'll be cycling whether rain or shine - or headwinds - and it is probably best not to know.
Early start for the ferry in the morning so off to discover who wins the snoring competition!
Daily statistics
Distance cycled: 75.2 miles
Time on road: 6.00hrs
Average speed: 12.4 mph
Max speed: 35.00mph
Faults: none
Injuries: None
Had a great send off from the Headway House - in addition to family and friends and staff and volunteers - we had a group of attenders who were all standing outside in the rain to wave us off! Pity Martin wasn't there - we had to make our own tea!
Did I mention that it was raining?? We left in the rain and cycled all the way to Rochester before it stopped. I spent the morning thinking positive thoughts about cycling in the rain:-
- It kept us cool
- It was a lot better than being in Lafayette Louisiana (where I lived for three years) suffering from Hurricane Gustav
- It kept us Hydrated
- It could have been cold
Made it to Dover in one piece after 19 miles riding on the dual carriageway - because it saved miles - and arrived in blue skies and sunshine. Travel inn for the night and a pint of Guinness / Cider to celebrate. Started watching the TV weather forecast but then decided there was no point, we'll be cycling whether rain or shine - or headwinds - and it is probably best not to know.
Early start for the ferry in the morning so off to discover who wins the snoring competition!
Monday 1 September 2008
No more preparations
Well that's it. Have packed away all the planning stuff. Hotels, ferries etc all confirmed and route decided. Have cut up £50 worth of IGN maps to carry only what is necessary and saved 500g in the process.
Didn't manage any cycling over the weekend and found a displacement activity each day to avoid the gym - if I'm not fit enough now, its too late! Did manage a birthday party on Saturday night and a great lunch on Sunday so think that was much more appropriate.
Came across a great cycling opportunity for those of you who don't get on a bike regularly. When I was at Peter & Karen's birthday bash on Saturday I met a guy called Neil Luddington who runs Lord Jolly Bicycle Tours . He organises guided bicycle tours of central London and manages to keep to cycle paths and off road tracks. Sounds like a great way to see London - have a look at the site and have a go or recommend it to friends and visitors. Only runs during the summer months but worth bookmarking for next year!!
From tomorrow, my posts to the blog will be dependent on finding internet access along the way but it shouldn't be too difficult. Hope I can keep positive and enjoy the trip - have been really hacked by recent tv shows about "trips of a lifetime" where all they do is complain about how tough it is! If I start to moan too much, then someone tell me.
We are setting off from the Headway House tomorrow and hope to be on the road by 10.00 for a longish ride to Dover. Only disappointment so far is that it looks like being wet for the first 3-4 days. Oh, was that a moan? still haven't started yet so don't think it counts!
in touch soon...
Didn't manage any cycling over the weekend and found a displacement activity each day to avoid the gym - if I'm not fit enough now, its too late! Did manage a birthday party on Saturday night and a great lunch on Sunday so think that was much more appropriate.
Came across a great cycling opportunity for those of you who don't get on a bike regularly. When I was at Peter & Karen's birthday bash on Saturday I met a guy called Neil Luddington who runs Lord Jolly Bicycle Tours . He organises guided bicycle tours of central London and manages to keep to cycle paths and off road tracks. Sounds like a great way to see London - have a look at the site and have a go or recommend it to friends and visitors. Only runs during the summer months but worth bookmarking for next year!!
From tomorrow, my posts to the blog will be dependent on finding internet access along the way but it shouldn't be too difficult. Hope I can keep positive and enjoy the trip - have been really hacked by recent tv shows about "trips of a lifetime" where all they do is complain about how tough it is! If I start to moan too much, then someone tell me.
We are setting off from the Headway House tomorrow and hope to be on the road by 10.00 for a longish ride to Dover. Only disappointment so far is that it looks like being wet for the first 3-4 days. Oh, was that a moan? still haven't started yet so don't think it counts!
in touch soon...
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