Wednesday, 10 September 2008

Day 9 (Wed) - Valence to Montelimare

Stats for the day

Distance travelled 34.3 miles
Average speed 11.2 mph
Max speed 30.6 mph
Time 3.02 hrs
Total dist 658 miles

Started from Valence in light rain for the first half hour, it then brightened and sun shone all day with a temperature up to 30 deg at midday. Lovely ride through rural France frightened a few chickens in a couple of farmyards on the way great fun! One big climb at Col de Deves only 458 metres but took us 30 minutes to climb followed by a great descent with views over the plains of Provence. Stopped at a little bakery to buy some lunch and met an old Belgian couple who were keen cyclists but thought like everyone else we’ve met that we must be mad.

Within 20 mins Richard's chain broke again (old chain, new chain still in the cycle bag) and this time catastrophically it ripped the derailleur gear off the bike and bent the frame bracket that supports it. Patched it up with one gear only and limped into Espeluche where Richard got a taxi to the bike shop in Montelimare while Oli had to cycle! The bike shop did a tremendous job and rebuilt the running gear in less than 3 hrs (Euro 150). So we are not bust yet but very nearly thought we were...

Found a little motel nearby to stay for our enforced rest afternoon and even found time for a swim in the warm evening temperature before dinner. Have devised a plan to make up the time over the next 2 days and still hope to be in Monte Carlo on schedule (Sat). Very early start tomorrow (at dawn) and hoping everything goes well.

ps Lucked out in our hotel tonight because they gave us a big room to fit the bikes in as well as ourselves AND they also have a lady cycling team staying here (French and they all look good in lycra!)

By complete chance our revised route for tomorrow takes us through a number of the major Rhone apellations – Cairanne (mentioned this before), Bacqueyres, Gigondas, and within spitting distance of beaumes de venise. Think we'll be pushed to fit in a tasting though.

Richard has never cycled more than 85 miles in a day but Oli being the expert reckons breaking the ton is nothing – we may find out tomorrow!

Haven’t seen TV or newspapers since Dover so if anyone fancies updating us on any important news (Arsenal, Leyton Orient (who?) or West Ham) feel free.

Day 8 (Tues) - Villefranche to Valence

Stats for the day

Distance travelled 97.5 miles
Average speed 11.6 mph
Max speed 27.5 mph
Time 8.2 hrs
Total dist 623 miles

Starting from Villefranche we had bright sun until lunchtime then it got very dark and the dreaded head wind arrived again however the sun came out in the late evening just when we needed it.

This was supposed to be an easy day but due to a problem with the original calculations and some poor navigation at Lyon we ended up with nearly 100 miles on the clock for the day. Because the cycle path at Lyon was blocked with works, we ended up cycling 7 miles on a very rough path, sometimes flooded, on the outside of the Total refinery - not very scenic as you can imagine. By the time we found our route again and got back on course we were running low on time and energy. We did find a very friendly cycle shop at Vienne where I got a new chain and directions to a brand new cycle route on our path and Oli got a new cycle cap (gift from the friendly cycle shopkeeper).

Because of fading daylight we did the last 27 miles in 2 hrs and arrived at the hotel after dark. Survived the whole day on fruit and chocolate (good cycling food says Oli). We did have to resort to an energy gel for the finish and they do taste so disgusting that you really only use them in an emergency.

Very impressed again with Campanile hotel and found that their local wine was the cairanne bouton d’or which Linda and I served at our wedding (memories!). Oli enjoyed it so much that we took an extra half bottle back to the room to help with our route planning for the next day and devised a route which kept us away from the main roads for all of day 9.

Just for Graham - we cycled through Condrieu (a favourite of Pauline L’s), Ampul (the headquarters of E Guigal probably the best of the Rhone producers) and just before arriving in Valence we passed very closed to Crozel’hermitage. What a wine list!

Day 7 (Mon) - Chagny to Villefranche

Stats for the day

Distance travelled 73.3 miles
Average speed 12.1 mph
Max speed 27.1 mph
Time 6.05 hrs
Total dist 526 miles

After posting the blog had a great ride along the Voie Verte had a photo opportunity at Cormatin which is as pretty as any Loire château. Onto Cluny for the promised demi bouteille of St Veran and back on the road when everything went wrong. Being clumsy with the gear changes Richard managed to break the chain on his bike and although Oli had his chain tool we managed to damage that as well. Cycled back to Cluny to the bike shop to find that they had closed for the day (at 3pm!) and there was not another bike shop within 40 miles. With the help of a couple of Frenchmen in lycra... who originally stopped to borrow a pump... we managed to fix the chain and carry on to Villefranche. Survived the day with some very expensive but very very good hazelnut chocolate from the patisserie at Cluny!

Monday, 8 September 2008

Frenchmen in Lycra

As we ride up the hills, we are usually overtaken by some skinny frenchman in lycra with a cheery 'bonjour'. Since they all weigh less than 60 kilos soaking wet and all ride bikes that weigh "huit kilos" I think they have a bit of an advantage over me and my bike.

however on saturday we came upon a cycle event for part of the route - must have been 50-60 cyclists on a club ride - and most of them should not have been wearing lycra!

back online

Didnt realise it would be so difficult to find internet access. also didnt know that no one in France has a Qwerty keyboard so typing is v frustrating.

Day 7 - departed from Chagny this morning in blue skies and sunshine and after 10 miles on the road to Givry we are now on the Voie Verte for 40 miles - old railway line with tarmac surface - level, and quite quick. our stop tonight is Villefranche sur Saone in the heart of Beaujolais. We have already cycled past Rully, Mercurey, Chassagne Montrachet, St Aubin and Santenay. Gets more like a restaurant wine list as we head south. Should be at Cluny for lunch time and perhaps close enough for a glass or two of Pouilly Fuisse or St Veran with our picnic.

When we last wrote - on day 4 in Chateau Thierry - Oli had finished the pastries by the time I caught up with him and we had a wet ride to Montmirail where the plat du jour was Lapin a la moutarde washed down with a very nice red burgundy. The afternoon got brighter and we finished in Nogent sur Seine - finally crossed the Seine - 301 miles from Calais. There were only two ther guests in the hotel but they still gave us a room on the third floor (no lift) at the far end of the corridor. Had the restaurant to ourselves - although later joined by a couple who looked like they were on a naughty (only had one course and rushed off to their room). For Graham's benefit - Oli had Salmon in a fruit de mer sauce and I had hake in tarragon. since we were in the region of Aube en Champagne, it would have been rude not to drink the local fizz!

Still seeing war graves as we ride along and also FFR monuments to those shot by the germans - mostly in 1944. I'm reading Ben Elton's "First Casualty" which is about the first war and a great story if you see a copy. Still true today - as blair and campbell proved - Truth is always the first casualty of war!

Day 5 took us via St Florentin to Ancy le Franc - should have had the afternoon on the canal but the path was more cart track than cycle path so we stuck to the road. smart hotel with pool but not v friendly. couldn't do an early breakfast for us and wouldn't open the pool early either. However they did have a very posh restaurant - as Oli said they gave you new cutlery with each course.

Since we were now in burgundy, we had cremant to start and a lovely tonerrois red with dinner --Boeuf for me and Raie au moutarde for Oli. It is hard work trying to get all these calories in. lots of bread and croissants at breakfast, coffee and patisserie for elevenses and now settled into buying savoury pastries for a picnic lunch. there was a great charcuterie across from the hotel so we could load up for the next day.

Day 6 took us from Ancy to Chagny - again had hoped to spend most of day on canal but only managed about 40k before we were forced back the road. it was overcast for most of the day but we seemed to miss most of the rain - a couple of little showers but nothing more. It was always planned to be our longest day and after tea at Bligny sur Ouche, we cycled up a 10% hill for about 25 mins. then on to Bel Air where we could look down on all of Burgundy - great view but a little hazy. once we started down the hill towards Chagny it got a lot warmer -even on the 7 mile downhill stretch.

very good hotel in Chagny - lots of other cyclists - australians and germans - and a secure garage for our bikes. Since it was Sunday evening the restaurant choice was a little limited but found a small brasserie where we got escargots to start - allowed Oli his Julia Roberts moment with the tongs! Lovely piece of entrecote charollais for me Boeuf for Oli - Grand cru Rully was as local as we could get - worth the ride just for that!

Sunday, 7 September 2008

Day 6 - Ancy le France to Chagny

Still no internet access so PA clocking up some overtime...

Stats today - day 6

Distance travelled 81.8 miles (impressive!)
Average speed 11.4mph
Max 32.2mph
Time 7.08 hrs
Total 452 miles

Weather for the day - dry but overcast for most of the day, sunshine late afternoon. Only very little rain, but still strong head wind for much of the day.

PA says - I do know they were cycling along part of the Canal de Bourgogne today, stopped for a picnic lunch enroute when a short sharp shower of rain sent them on their way again. After a big climb uphill, the last 7 miles into Chagny was all down hill - a nice way to end the day!

ps Half way there, all downhill from now on...

Saturday, 6 September 2008

Saturday, 6th September 2008

Bon soir from the Barbican... unable to find internet access in Ancy le France, details sent by text for the PA to type up. So stats to date

Day 4 (Fri 5 Sept) / Day 5 (Sat 6 Sept)
Distance travelled 70.9 miles / 68.3miles
Average speed 10.6mph / 10.8mph
Max speed 32.5mph / 32.7mph
Time 6.37 hrs / 6.16 hrs
Total distance 301 miles / 370 miles

Day 4 Soissons to Nogent Sur Seine - grey cool start. Rain from coffee time 'til tea time and strong head wind all day.

Day 5 Nogent sur Seine to Ancy le France - dry all day and sunshine in late pm. Still strong head wind for much of the day.

Hopefully the intrepid cyclists will be able to stop at an internet cafe tomorrow (although it will be Sunday not much open in France on a Sunday) so they can write a bit more other than weather reports!